Budget travel to London

LOL - title - can it be true? My initial plan for the summer of two zero one four was to visit Bali (Indonesia) and throw in a couple of days in Singapore and possibly Vietnam to get a well rounded dose of fun for everyone in my family. Beaches, shopping, amusement parks, natural wonders, history,great  food, great hotels; what more can one ask for?

"Why are we doing Asia again?" I was asked by my united family. "It's hot in summer and the places are so boring" I was told. Well, kids can only kid; and my wife behaves like one when holidays are the topic of discussion. "So where do you want to go?". Prompt came the reply "London - just London if nowhere else close by".

London can be a great idea, except; 15 days. To my mind its too long, boring and super expensive. It's hard to fight the family - specially on subjects like holiday. So, no choice but to change the mindset. The English weather strangely appeals to my entire family; and yes, I would truly not mind a holiday in ol blighty. It took away the task of being too nomadic traveling from place to place. It's not just the capital of UK but of the whole world; and while it may sound like spending too many days there, at the end of it, it's just not enough. I did have a budget in mind and informed my kingdom that we would have to cut on style and expenses for a well measured holiday there. "Put us in a no star hotel, and we don't mind economy class either - just make sure we are on a decent airline" is what I heard back.

There was a time when I could fit my whole family in a room. Now, the children are young adults and having them in the same room is impractical unless the room is 30m2+. As it is - one room in Central London is expensive; two; gulp. Of course there are apartments, but then the good ones are not cheap either and the net saving is barely 15%. Visas; the Brit visa is a near Rs 9000 per head for just 6 months. Airfare; the cheaper fares on good airlines are all non refundable.  Shopping; the daughter has now become a consultant to mother and between the two of them my wallet would lose weight very fast. Boy, was I in trouble.

Fortune favours the brave, and it did favour me. I got a relatively good price on Virgin and I booked 2 rooms at the Tune hotel (www.tunehotels.com). Split my stay at two of their properties; that is, at Liverpool st. and King's Cross at an average of GBP 120 a night (in total) inclusive of air-conditioning et all. I knew the rooms were small - but then - it's better than what the family was prepared to cut back to. I develop budget hotels but when it comes to my holidays I love luxury. I don't care much where I stay when on work - but holidays- I don't know. Anyway, I did not have a choice - unless I was prepared to loosen my wallet more (like let it tear) - had to stay in good affordable accommodation in Central London; else, stay a bit further away - which too was not acceptable to us all.

So a budget holiday it would have to be. Would it be fun - let's see. Summary of my experiences:

1. Visas: The visa process is run by VFS and the latest change is that forms have to be filled online ( http://vfsglobal.co.uk/india/ ). Which meant; could do it directly without the help of a travel agent. UK is pretty good about somethings like not insisting on producing air tickets, mediclaim etc. With a filing fee of nearly Rs 9000 for a 6 month short visit visa, the applicant better be serious about visiting. When it comes to the visa costs, I say "I love America". Single fee with the visa term decided based on risk. So also Canada. I think UK should follow suit too unless the pricing for longer duration is intentional to keep the numbers low. It should however have a special deal on family visas. Filing the form online was easy but time consuming. The appointment with VFS straight forward. Got there at the designated time and was let in on time too. With the holiday rush and requirement for presence of all applicants for biometrics registration; we got our turn 4 hours later. VFS charges an obscene amount for sending a SMS and/ or courier to intimate you on your application and deliver it by courier. I avoided the extra charges as I asked and was told that the applicant is informed by email on when to pick up the passports.

2. Airport to hotel: Repeat visitors familiar with London transport know that it has one of the most expensive - yet finest public transport system in the world. I was travelling with wife and 2 kids and my extended family included 7 pieces of luggage in tow. Train or Tube - not practical. Booked a mini cab. Cost - a bit cheaper than if would have travelled by train - with the convenience of an airport to hotel drop. Estate car that could load all of us comfortably from Heathrow to Liverpool St. - GBP 56 (http://www.airporttaxis-uk.co.uk/London-City/qqto.html) Got a quote - filled a form - paid by card. Got a call back from OTS (to India) to confirm the booking and verify the details. Comforting. By the time I got to London, I had the driver's number and cab details. Was greeted at the airport by a friendly Somalian; owner of a very nice Mercedes Van (much larger than the estate I had booked). I did use OTS again and will certainly recommend it.

3. Travel within the City: Black cabs are great - I love them - but only at night when there is no traffic. Daytime; I love to use the bus rather than the underground. If you are going to make only 3 - 4 trips a day in Zone 1; then use the Oyster card for an adult and Child travelcard (zone 1 to 6) for an under 15. Under 11 - no ticket on bus or underground required if traveling with an Oyster card or day travelcard holder. While traveling on the underground, the Oyster card is billed on basis of stations travelled measured by entry and exit point; the bus has a single fare however much the distance (as long as it's in the same bus). Bus fares are much cheaper than the tube - but the trick is to find a bus that takes you exactly where you want so that you don't have to change it. Assure you not difficult. Would use the day off peak travelcard otherwise.( https://account.tfl.gov.uk/oyster ) London is a fab place to walk despite its willyweather and we did take some seriously long treks inside the City.

4. Travel out of the City: National Express or bus services are more economical than trains for sure. Children travel half price, or at times even lower. With the net, it's very easy to figure out the costs. On the train too; there are discounts if traveling as a family or with one more adult. Cost cutting requires a bit of research.

(Take a break from London and visit any of these day visit or more towns Oxford, Cambridge, Bath, Windsor, Brighton ( http://www.londontourist.org/trips.html ) Or if shopping excites you then nothing like a visit to   http://www.bicestervillage.com/  Designer Outlet.  

5. Food: None of us in the family are great fans of true blue fast food and we did not visit any such eatery in all of 15 days there. Most eateries will average out between GBP 10 and 15 per head including beer/wine or soft drink. Ask for the Kid menus - most places have one. Wagamama, Yo Sushi, Itsu for Japanese; Maroush for Lebanese; Dishoom for Indian (with a twist); Busabathai for Thai; Cabana for Brazilian; Royal China for Chinese - were easily our favourites. I quite like the coffee and atmosphere at Costa Coffee; but Starbucks "rocks and rules" all over the world. On my daughter's must have list - Lola Cupcakes http://www.lolas-kitchen.co.uk/ . Yes, they were very good. And on mine - a nice salt beef on rye sandwich with a slice of pickle chased with Earl Grey tea at the Selfridges.  A trip to London would never be complete without a visit to a Pub and they are quite economical. Honestly; I am not so much into expensive "see-food" and there are several places in London where GBP 100 a head is just the starting off menu. I am sure its great tasting food and an experience; but its something I would not miss except maybe visiting a Gordon Ramsay restaurant (my online teacher for making great food). Eating at the food stalls at the Spitalfields market or Brick Lane is an experience and so easy on the pocket. It's so nice to sit outside early evening for some coffee and crepes; or an English high tea. As I write, I am drooling at the thought of the scones I had with clotted cream and fresh strawberry jam.

6.  Stay: There was a time when lesser than a 3 star hotel was unthinkable. Nowadays, stars really don't matter but reviews on the likes of tripadvisor do. There are plenty of budget options ranging from CitizenM on one (higher) end of the budget spectrum to Premier Inn and easyHotel at the other. Tune, Formule, Ibis and a host of other brands fall somewhere in between. Rooms are small (12 - 16 m2) and service is limited. But there are some expensive many star  hotels in london offering maybe 50% more space at 500% higher rates and service that you could frankly forget. What I got at Tune were 2 rooms; 1 with a queen bed and 1 twin. Both rooms adjoining each other (not interconnected). The beds were comfortable, linen and towels quality clean. Space to park large luggage under the beds. We still lived out of bags by making our cabin bags as the wardrobe (Inconvenient) - but then these rooms were not designed for long stay. Bathrooms were small and the shower area really small. But it was clean with Villeroy & Boch fittings. Toiletries were really very good. TV, Aircon, daily towel change, wifi come at a price. I took the pack. It had a tuck shop by the reception that sold hot and cold beverages and small packed eats. Well located with plenty of breakfast and dining options within a 100m radius. It took a day for us all to get used to the rooms and the hotel; after which, neither the size or service were discussed as inconvenience. I still love luxury hotels and would not stay elsewhere at a resort destination; but in a city like London a Tune worked for us just fine. Going a step further in my adventure to be even more budget minded - I would attempt staying at one of the branded designer hostels that have started popping up all over Europe.

7. Attractions: They can cost a small fortune as entry to most tourist traps are pricey. Each person has their own wish list while traveling and while one may believe that I am "Uncle Scrooge" my own opinion is that I am a value seeker. Fortunately, there are lots of things to do in London for free or next to nothing. Spend half a day each at the Hyde Park, Regents Park and Kensington Park (Diana Memorial). Paddle boat in the serpentine (GBP 12 per adult for 30mins) or cycle around the park (GBP 3 per hour) or just laze on the lawns. Several galleries and museums have no admission fee. Then there are markets, concerts, street plays and performances all for free. ( http://www.timeout.com/london/things-to-do/free-london ). Movies are expensive, concerts and plays even more. But the quality of the venues, auditoriums and shows so high that its every penny worth it. The earliest and last birds catch the worm in London when it comes to the best priced (affordable) tickets and there are several licensed ticket vendors around the city from where one can check a pick them up from. For a day of sightseeing; just buy the travelcard and go from place to place atop the London red buses. Beats even the hop-on hop-off bus in terms of price.  ( http://www.londonforfree.net/outdoors/bustour/bustour.shtml ). If you are a fan of cricket, go for a game to the Lords or Oval. The tickets are not that pricey. Historic and modern architecture, fancy cars, window shopping, nicely dressed people, watching hundreds of nationalities sharing space with you is just so WOW.

Point is one can do as much or as little in London; and either way you will feel that your holiday and money have evaporated in no time.

My final bill for 15 days (I will keep the shopping aside):

a. Airfare for 4 - GBP 2100 (all adult fare)
b. Hotel - GBP 1800 (2 rooms)
c. Food - GBP 1350
d. Travel -GBP 300 (including trip to-fro airport)
e. Sightseeing, concert, attractions, movies - GBP 500
f. Misc GBP 100 (phone card, adapters and other such things)
g. Weather - Free

Total - GBP 6,150 or 410 a day.

No bad I guess considering that a good 4 star  hotel/apartment alone would have set me back by GBP 250 or more.

Some tips for the uninitiated:

- London tap water is safe for drinking and unless you find the taste unappealing; ask for tap water at restaurants and refill your water bottles. Buying bottled water is a waste of money and in any case your tea coffee, lemonade are all made with tap water.

- Many take away eateries run a happy hour just before closing time (hint) which actually happens to be dinner time for most Indians.

- Luxury brands don't announce "sale" and "deals"; but most have it all year round. Ask for marked downs or promotions - else you will never know.

- Don't get VAT invoicing done until you are sure that you have reached an end of your shopping spree. The handling fee per VAT invoice is quite substantial so try and make just one for each outlet.

- There is no difference in price between a regular and visitor Oyster Card. So don't get rushed into buying one overseas. Children between 11 and 15 can travel free on London transport by getting a Junior Oyster ID card. Make sure you do that 3 weeks ahead of visiting. There is a fee of GBP 10 but every penny worth it if your stay exceeds greater than 4 days.

- Discounted concert and theatre tickets can be booked on ticketmaster ( http://www.ticketmaster.co.uk/ ) with an option to pick them up at the venue.

- Prepaid SIMs. I have stopped using Matrix as they work out quite expensive. Pick up a "Lebera" SIM. Beats the rest in rates and calls from lebara to lebara numbers are free. http://www.lebara.co.uk/

- Lastly; do not convert. You will have a terrible holiday if you do. Go by the bread index of conversion if you still feel like it. On my bread index - GBP 1 = INR 20